More about fabric construction:

Last time there were knits, now there are woven fabrics- these are jeans, jackets and dress shirts. Wovens do not stretch left to right or up and down, only on the bias (on an angle) unless some kind of stretchy fiber is added (spandex). This fabric is construction by tightly holding in place many many threads the length of the fabric (warp threads) and weaving many many other threads left and right (weft or filling threads). Fitted woven garments required functional closures like buttons and zippers.

Pictured above is an all the way black, all the way woven cotton if you see cake skirt with re appropriated vintage fur detail in the front and a functional exposed zipper detail in the back; grommeted twill tape tie. Available now at the shop on Saturdays 10 am to 6 pm, by chance or by appointment anytime- 589 Markham Street, Toronto, Ontario.

Please contact for an appointment.  

There are a few different ways to construct fabric, let us review:

 Knits are constructed with a serious of loops in an incremental zig-zag formation. There are many different kinds of knits... don't worry about it- knit garments are stretchy and are used for the majority of today's clothing, just remember that mostly jersey is used. T shirts, underwear, socks, toques and sweaters are all knits; basically any garment that stretches to be pulled on, then retains it's shape during wear. Also, knits do not generally include functional closures such as buttons or zippers.

Pictured above is a project that is so so exciting! Silk, cotton blend knit sweater with an antique patch appliqued as a crest by hand (it takes hours). Some of the patches that were found date back to the early 1920's. Love!

Available soon at the "I made this for you." -Sara Duke Factory Store on Saturdays 10 am to 6 pm, by chance or by appointment anytime- 589 Markham Street, Toronto, Ontario.

Please contact for an appointment.  

Pictured below are close up photos, a selection of the great great patches.


Hello there public, 

Alright, let's try this! I got some advice today that a blog is not really a blog unless I provide some space for feedback and comments. Here we go, let me know what you think about the content and if you have any fashion questions that you would like me to address.

Thank you!

Sara Duke

It is coming up on winter and one may notice that the back vent of that brand new winter coat has an X losely sewn at the bottom...
Cut it out! 

Often garments are shipped flat in boxes over long distances. This X, or stay stitch, is in place to ensure that the vent does not flip up and over during its long journey. Flippage would create a very nasty crease, given the inevitable changes in temperature and humidity, which would take all kinds of work to get out.

Same goes for welt pockets and pleats, remove the stay stitch before wear.

Pictured above is an illustration of vents and a little definition; and below, a diagram. Pretend that it's the back of that brand new winter coat...